Highlights of my annual trips to Newfoundland... Part One

This blog deals with some of the highlights we see on my annual Newfoundland trips every summer.

When I lead trips to Newfoundland, we go to the famous locations, but I also take you off the beaten path on hidden roads I have uncovered through the years of guiding trips to one of Canada’s photographic gems.

One of the favourite locations we visit is Gros Morne National Park. Gros Morne National Park of Canada was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It took Mother Nature 485,000,000 years to mold Gros Morne National Park into the geological and visual wonder we know today.

It is the second largest National Park in eastern Canada, Gros Morne National Park stretches across 1,805 square kilometres of western Newfoundland as part of the towering Long Range Mountains.

Gros Morne is framed by tiny seaside communities, and encompassing forests, freshwater fjords, bogs, barren lowlands, moose, and striking cliffs and shorelines, this area is also world-renowned for its complex geology. It was here that geologists proved the theory of plate tectonics. The Tablelands, a mountain of flat-topped rock of a kind usually found only deep in the earth’s mantle, is a truly awe-inspiring sight.

Together we will take a stroll along the trail to Western Brook Pond, over marshland draped in butterworts, great sundew, orchids, dragon's mouth, and pitcher plants. At the end of your walk, hop aboard a boat tour taking you through the fjord.

You'll can also get to sail close enough to feel the spray on your face from some of the highest waterfalls in eastern North America.

The tours I lead are not just about the ancient land… When it comes to viewing icebergs, this is one of the best places in the world. On a sunny day, view these 10,000-year-old glacial giants from many points along the northern and eastern coasts – in every shape and size. With colours ranging from snow-white to the deepest aquamarine, these cathedrals of ice are on their last leg of their journey as they float down the eastern coast of Newfoundland.

Its taken them two years to get here from the arctic or the Greenland shelf… and with me you will be able to photograph them form land, and by boat.

Despite their arrival from the Arctic every spring, the awe of them remains new, year after year. Their sheer size sends the mind racing, and that's not even counting the ninety-percent still unseen below the surface. It was these types and sizes of bergs that sank the infamous Titanic, a mere 400 miles from the Newfoundland coast.

The best time to view icebergs is in the spring and early summer, and that’s whey we are going in early June… the optimal time for viewing.

Iceberg Alley is an area stretching from the coast of Labrador to the northeast coast of the island of Newfoundland. Some of the more popular places from shore, or from tour boats, are (from north to south): St. Lewis, Battle Harbour, Red Bay, Point Amour, St. Anthony, La Scie, Twillingate, Fogo Island, Change Islands, Bonavista, St. John's/Cape Spear, Bay Bulls/Witless Bay, Cape St. Mary's and St. Vincent's.

All of these locations are accessible by road. The first four, which are on the coast of Southern Labrador, can be accessed by car ferry from the island of Newfoundland year round. Our location for optimal viewing is near St. Anthony’s… and to make it even better, we will be staying many nights at a converted lighthouse on a private island at the very north east point of Newfoundland. From here we can sit and drink our coffee on the huge deck that overlooks the icebergs that float just off the coast line for our own private viewing.

L’Anse Aux Meadows and Quirpon Island… one of my favourite areas in Newfoundland.

Norse Sagas have spoken about it for centuries. But whether it was merely myth or folklore, had long been debated. That is, of course, until the discovery of a small cloak pin in 1968 by archaeologists Helge and Anne Stine Ingstad. This proved that Leif Erickson and crews of Norse explorers settled here in Newfoundland and Labrador (or Vinland as they called it) over a thousand years ago.

In 1978, L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site became part of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Sites as the first and only authenticated Norse site in North America.

Today, a visit to the site can transport you back to where Vikings once stood. Perched on the tip of the Viking Trail, it’s a place where mystery still mingles with the light and washes over the strange, captivating landscape.

Right around the corner from here lies Quirpon… a favourite every year for viewing icebergs and whales… where land meets the open sea, whales, icebergs, endless seascapes and our very own lighthouse awaits.

Quirpon, the most north eastern point of Newfoundland where the icebergs that travel for up to two years to get down to iceberg alley are first seen in off the coast of Newfoundland.

My groups stay at our very own lighthouse inn on a private island. You have complete access to the entire island at any time of day. Here you will be photographing some incredible seascapes, Gannet colonies, puffins if the colony has returned, humpbacks and icebergs.

Each day we will take a boat out onto the water to track down these bergs as they flow past the island. We want you to get up close and personal with these cathedrals of ice. On these three days we will have 6 hours of private Zodiac time at our disposal.

Our stay for these three nights is at the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn. Quirpon (pronounced kar-poon) offers a unique island experience at a 1922 light-keeper’s home on the shores of ‘Iceberg Alley’. Fully restored, Quirpon Lighthouse Inn features ten beautiful rooms at the base of a still-operating lighthouse and is a Registered Heritage Building.

Located off the northernmost tip of Newfoundland, Quirpon is the province’s best location for viewing icebergs as the Labrador Current carries them south. Quirpon Island boasts the longest iceberg-viewing season in Newfoundland, with the last melting in the fall during a good year.

Whales are constant companions off the shores of Quirpon, often coming close enough to the rocks to be touched. Whale experts ascribe this phenomenon to the underwater topography and ample food supply. In addition to Humbacks and Minke - the presence of which is virtually inevitable - you may spot as many as 27 more species, including Orca, which are being spotted with increasing frequency around Quirpon Island despite becoming a rarer sight elsewhere in Newfoundland.

But one can never forget the lower east coast of Newfoundland. Towns like Trinity, Bonavista, Hearts Content and Cavendish, these are just a few locations that await if you travel with me to the other side of the island.

Come back tomorrow and I will discuss where we go when I travel to those locations... That post can be seen here, http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/blog/2017/5/20/highlights-of-my-annual-newfoundland-workshops-part-two

If you want to see the tours I lead to this area of Newfoundland, please check out my page dedicated to all my Newfoundland trips. That page can be seen here, http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/newfoundland-photography-workshops

Highlights of my annual Newfoundland Workshops ... Part Two

As a continuation to my earlier post on areas of Newfoundland that have turned into my favourite places to visit, todays blog is a continuation of that post. 

Lets start off discussing the Provincial Bird, the Puffin. 

Going to photograph the Puffins in Newfoundland is a must see for anyone that likes to photograph birds, er even wildlife for that matter. 

There are a few ways you can photograph these birds. One is by boat, the other by land. My personal preference is to photograph them by land. That can be done in the town of Ellison 

Elliston was once known as Bird Island Cove and with good reason. It is home to numerous seabirds and also the Atlantic Puffin. In fact, we have one of the closest land views of puffins in North America. The puffin is also the official bird of Newfoundland and Labrador since 1992.

The Atlantic Puffin is one of four puffin species and the only one that lives on the North Atlantic Ocean. The Latin term is Fratercula arctica, with fratercula meaning "little brother" and arctica meaning "north." This scientific name can be translated as "little brother of the north." The puffin is also known as the "sea parrot" due in part to its interesting colouring. Elliston has hundreds nesting pairs at the site and more on North Bird Island.

Puffins establish burrows on grassy cliffs. They will also nest amongst rocks. Male puffins perform most of the work of clearing out the nest area, which is sometimes lined with grass, feathers or seaweed. The only time spent on land is to nest which is about five months per year. Mates are found prior to arriving at the colonies, and mating takes place at sea. The Atlantic Puffin is sexually mature at the age of 4–5 years. The species is monogamous and has biparental care. A single-egg clutch is produced each year, and incubation responsibilities are shared between both parents. Total incubation time is around 39–45 days, and the chick takes about 49 days to fledge. At fledging, the chick leaves the burrow alone, and flies/swims out to sea, usually during the evening. Contrary to popular belief, young puffins are not abandoned by their parents. The average bird lives about 20 years.

My favourite puffin viewing site is just a short five minute walk from the main road on a sharp turn. It is also roughly halfway between Sandy Cove Beach and Puffin Ventures Craft shop in Maberly. Puffins return to the area in May and usually stay until the end of September.

On the theme of bird life in Newfoundland, one can not leave out Cape St. Marys. Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve is a wonderland for birdwatchers and explorers alike. Thousands of gulls, razorbills, common murres, black-legged kittiwakes, northern gannets, and double-crested and great cormorants nest here. Where 20,000 scoters, oldsquaw, harlequin, dovekies, thick-billed murres, and kittiwakes winter. This captivating area is one of seven seabird ecological reserves protected by provincial legislation. Its natural beauty makes it perfect for nature walks and family adventures.

Cape St. Mary's is the most accessible seabird rookery in North America. Bird Rock is the third largest nesting site and southernmost colony of northern gannets in North America. Cape St. Mary's is also the southernmost breeding area for thick-billed murres in the world and the southernmost major breeding site for common murres in the northwest Atlantic Ocean. This site is overflowing with perching, diving, and scrambling birds from edge to edge – melding together into an awesome moving, breathing spectacle of colour and sound.

OK, lets switch gears... lets discuss the Cape Spear lighthouse and St. Johns itself. There is plenty to see and photograph here for any photographer. 

At Cape Spear you can stand with your back to the sea and the entire population of North America is to the west of you. Face the sea and the next stop east is Ireland.

Perched on a rugged cliff at our continent's most easterly point lies Cape Spear Lighthouse – the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province and an iconic symbol of Newfoundland and Labrador's mariner history.

Constructed in 1836, the Cape Spear Lighthouse represents the unique architecture of lighthouse construction during this era. The structure consists of a stone light tower surrounded by the lightkeeper's residence. In 1955 a new lighthouse tower was built on the site using the active light from the original lighthouse.

The human side of Cape Spear tells the story of the Cantwell family. Generations of this famous family of lightkeepers resided at Cape Spear for over 150 years and worked tirelessly to maintain a light so vital to mariners. Step inside the restored lighthouse and discover the true life of a 19th-century lighthouse keeper.

Journey back in time and explore the remnants of the sites World War II coastal defence battery – Fort Cape Spear. Walk in the footsteps of Canadian and American soldiers as they guarded St. John's from attack from lurking German U-boats.

For the naturalist, Cape Spear will overload your senses with ocean vistas of crashing waves, feeding whales and majestic icebergs. The site also provides an entry point to the breathtaking East Coast Trail.

Jelly Bean Row... It has been said, the human eye can see over ten million colours. Around here, we felt as though there were a few missing. So residents have taken the liberty to think up some of their own. You’ll find that the path through Jellybean Row is paved with all sorts of tones - from the playful absurdity of Mollyfodge, to the subtle silvern mists of Foggy Dew, and everything in between.

There is lots more to see and do in and around Newfoundland, for the tourist folks, Signal Hill is a must visit, the warf, the battery... but Im going to skip up north now and focus on a few other highlights... 

Lets look at Cavendish, Trinity and Hearts Content on Trinity Bay. This whole area has something for everyone! Steeped in wonderfully preserved history, surrounded by pristine waters and forests, Heart's Content, Cavendish and Trinity are a few places you will never forget...Let me just say vibrant colour, incredible architecture to photograph and fantastic people. 

A little farther up the eastern coastline are two more of my favourites... not too far from each other lie Newtown and Twillengate. 

Newtown, said to be called the Venice of Newfoundland. Imagine the past meeting the present! Meet characters from the past in our homes, school, fish stage, gardens, and Sealers Interpretation Centre. This town is somewhere that my groups say they could spend a whole day at... 

Awhhh, then there is Twillengate. Known for its icebergs and dotted islands that lie just off the coast, Twillengate is a favourite every year for the icebergs. 

A small island in the North Atlantic, Twillingate is one of the most picturesque outports in all of Newfoundland and Labrador and one of the province's most popular rural outport destinations.

Located on the edge of what is known as Iceberg Alley, Twillingate is affectionately known as the Iceberg Capital of the world. Many of these 10,000 year old iceberg giants float by quietly each year and people travel great distances just to chance a glance.

Have I teased you enough yet? ;-) How about one more photo from a whale tour in Trinity Bay... 

Why dont you check out my Newfoundland tours page. It has all the trips I am running in this very photogenic province. All those trips can be seen here. http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/newfoundland-photography-workshops

Oh, and dont forget to check out part one of my highlights of Newfoundland. Check that out here, www.kevinpepperphotography/blog/2017/5/19/highlights-of-my-annual-trips-to-newfoundland-part-one

The "Very Best Of Newfoundland" Photography Workshop

The Very Best of Newfoundland

This is where the sun rises first in North America. Where Vikings landed over 1,000 years ago. This place is home to the oldest settlement and the oldest city in North America, but is the youngest province of Canada. 

A vast land, with a relatively small population, Newfoundland and Labrador has some of the friendliest people you'll ever meet. Here, you can immerse yourself in wilderness solitude one day and embrace a vibrant culture at the cutting edge of the contemporary western world the next. 

This is a land of rich history and natural wonders: stunning coastlines, breaching whales, icebergs, and some of the most incredible skyscapes you'll ever see.

Why Come to Newfoundland With Me?

I have been travelling to Newfoundland and Labrador for many years now. From Rose Blanche to Gros Morne, north to Quirpon and Labrador, and up and down the south east coast. I have led trips for landscapes, wildlife, icebergs and those wonderful, cute little birds we all love, the Puffins. 

In total I have been on six photography trips to Newfoundland, and over the years refined my trips with the best partners in the province to make them perfect for the photographer. My partners for whale and iceberg tours are experienced guides and will get us where humpback whales are each and every trip. My tour partner that owns the lighthouses we stay in make my trips some of my most memorable ones because of the staff, the experience, the fun we have, and most importantly to you... the photography opportunities. 

Maximum number of spots: The first 8 days has a maximum of 6 people in attendance, But I can only take a maximum of 4 people on my entire journey through Newfoundland. Therefore, I can only offer this 13 day trip to a maximum of 4 people. (Update... 3 spots left)

Price of the workshop: $7995CDN plus applicable taxes ($5895USD plus applicable taxes)

Dates of this Workshop: June 15, 2019 to June 27, 2019

Workshop Instructor: Kevin Pepper 

What’s Included?
All accommodation, meals at Quirpon Lighthouse and Cape Anguille Lighthosue Inns, Unlimited mileage vehicle, four zodiac tours and any entrance fees during this trip. 

What’s Not Included?
Items of personal nature, alcohol, meals not mentioned as included, flight from St. Johns to St Anthonys, international flights, visa to enter Canada (if required), anything not listed as included.

Day 1 - You will board your flight from St. Johns to At. Anthonys airport. There you will be picked up and taken to Quirpon Island. Here we visit the island’s unique sites and delicate biology. Take a walk along our cliff-top trails or explore the island following only your whims. 

Our stay for these two nights is at the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn. Quirpon (pronounced kar-poon) offers a unique island experience at a 1922 light-keeper’s home on the shores of ‘Iceberg Alley’. 

Fully restored, Quirpon Lighthouse Inn features ten beautiful rooms at the base of a still-operating lighthouse and is a Registered Heritage Building.

Located off the northernmost tip of Newfoundland, Quirpon is the province’s best location for viewing icebergs as the Labrador Current carries them south. Quirpon Island boasts the longest iceberg-viewing season in Newfoundland, with the last melting in the fall during a good year.

Whales are constant companions off the shores of Quirpon, often coming close enough to the rocks to be touched. Whale experts ascribe this phenomenon to the underwater topography and ample food supply. In addition to Humbacks and Minke - the presence of which is virtually inevitable - you may spot as many as 27 more species, including Orca, which are being spotted with increasing frequency around Quirpon Island despite becoming a rarer sight elsewhere in Newfoundland.

Quirpon is located on a private island and we have full access to the entire property and have our own lighthouse to photograph

Overnight: Quirpon Lighthouse Inn  

Day 2 - Now that you have wandered by land and taken Landscape and seascape photos, it is time to visit the whales and the dozens of icebergs by sea in our private zodiac.  

Our guide will take you on an exploration of the coastline not only in search of the massive wonders of this area that float aimlessly down the coastline from Greenland, but also the more subtle beauty...   

You will also photograph the Gannets, the Kittiwake colonies and Eider ducks nesting in tiny coves where you can pick mussels from the kayaks if the tide is low and tiny tickles which your boat can squeeze through ensure fun and dozens of photos.  

Overnight: Quirpon Lighthouse Inn

Day 3 - Head South to Gros Morne.  Just north of Gros Morne keep an eye out for The Arches. This unique rock formation is an ideal spot to stretch your legs. I can never resist the temptation to climb up on the top for a look but perhaps you will have more self-control! A few years ago an adventure race started at The Arches and then headed straight across the Great Northern Peninsula. 

This was done on foot and was only the first leg of a multi-day adventure that had the participants hiking, climbing, kayaking and biking in some of the harshest terrain imaginable. If you have been out wandering in the Tuckamore and looking at the mountains, you will appreciate the endurance of these folks.  

The white sand beaches near Cow Head which are wonderful and usually empty, very nice for a walk (or a swim, for hardier souls). Tonight enjoy some great local theatre at the Gros Morne Theatre in Cow Head, if you would like to experience the local culture.  

Overnight in Gros Morne National Park       

Day 4 -  Head off to the south side of Gros Morne National Park. Start at the Discovery Centre for an interpretation of the natural and cultural history of the National Park. From the centre you were able to see the Tablelands, the remarkable stretch of Mars like geology that makes this park a UNESCO World Heritage Site.   

Wander “downtown” Woody Point to explore the shops and waterfront.  After building an appetite it is time to head for a meal on a balcony overlooking Bonne Bay. I know the food will be great, but keep one eye on the ocean so you don’t miss whales that might be chasing the capelin into the bay, looking for their own seafood supper

To top the day off, before the sun goes down, it’s a great photoshoot at an impressive waterfall… but the waterfall is not the star of the show, it’s the Atlantic salmon that are jumping up the falls to their spawning grounds. These massive, 20-30lb fish throw themselves just meters from out feet and you can capture them in air, backs arcing… a photoshoot you only see on the Nat Geo channel.  

Overnight: South side of Gros Morne  

Day 5 - Feeling energetic? Today we will hike the Green Garden Trail that leads you through remarkable biological and geological wonders which are not equaled anywhere else on earth. This is approximately a 45-minute walk down a park trail to the coast. Wander along the coast as long as you like enjoying the seastacks, pillow lava, wild meadows, sea cave and semi-wild sheep. Then - more strenuous walking as you head back up the valley to our vehicle. You will be gone for a few hours, at least, so we will make sure we pack a lunch.

Trout River is a picturesque working fishing village wedged between the Tablelands and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Take a gentle walk on the Boardwalk and visit the museum, interpretation centre and historic house of Jacob A Crocker, the first settler of Trout River. There are also some wonderful craftspeople so you may be able to get a new pair of socks directly of the clothesline. 

A visit to the wharf is a must, not only for the photos, but because it gives you a chance to meet the local fishers and see what is destined for your plate later. Trout River boasts some beautiful walking trails and be certain to drive in back of the community to visit Trout River Pond. When you are overlooking it you have to realize that, as impressive as it is, you can only see about one third of it! There are several restaurants so we won’t go hungry eating local cuisine.   After supper, time to drive around Bonne Bay to the north side of Gros Morne.  

Visit some of the sites on the north side of the park including Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, Norris Point Look-off, the Ethie shipwreck and Rocky Harbour.   

If time permits we will do a return trip to Sir Richard Squires Provincial Park where the Atlantic Salmon jump the falls in their struggle to reach the headwaters of the Humber River. This is a great spot to relax and watch the salmon leaping while you try for the perfect photo of them in the air. This actually is the spot where National Geographic comes when they are looking for that ideal shot.

Overnight: South side of Gros Morne

Day 6 and Day 7 -  This morning we head further south to Cape Anguille Lighthouse. The Inn at Cape Anguille is a restored century-old light-keeper’s home in a beautiful corner of western Newfoundland and is designated as a Registered Heritage Structure for Newfoundland and Labrador. The Atlantic Ocean provides the temperamental backdrop to the peaceful landscape, dotted with horses and sheep wandering the meadows and hills.

Nature lovers will enjoy the eagles patrolling the cliffs and silhouetted osprey carrying fish to their young as the sun sets on a limitless sea. Avid birdwatchers will delight at the variety and number of rare birds that call this place their home. Hikers and sightseers will revel in chance to walk the hills and coastline around the lighthouse, enjoying agreeable terrain and spectacular views, while those less inclined to hike can relax and enjoy the sights and sounds of the sea, birds hopping by your doorstep and the gentle seaside path that starts at our lawn.

Lovely white sand beaches at the provincial park lure you in for a stroll and perhaps even a swim, while the shopkeepers and craftspeople of the area are warm and welcoming.

This corner of Newfoundland is the most likely location for spotting blue whales, the largest animals ever known to have lived on the Earth. Keep an eye out for spouts on the horizon!

 A very rare beluga whale has also called the area its summer home, providing exquisite company for swimmers and paddlers alike. With luck, our bubbly buddy will return to renew friendships.

During our time here we will also take a day long boat tour (weather permitting). This is a tour of the now-resettled remote communities of Grand Bruit and Petites, with a bonus stop in the still-active fishing village of La Poile. It includes a full day of boating with interpretation and close up views of sea birds, marine life and possibly whales. You will look for beach-combing critters like otters and wild game such as caribou, moose and bear which often frequent the shoreline.

La Poile is one of the last surviving isolated Newfoundland villages that is completely dependent on the commercial fishery for survival. Our skipper is from La Poile and knows the area intimately. You will learn about lobster and crab fishing, and you will try for a cod or mackerel. 

If you long for fresh air and would like to feel as if you've stepped back in time, this is the excursion for you. 

Overnight: Cape Anguille Inn 

Day 8 - We travel back to Marble Mountain Resort. We will check into our hotel and then head to bay of Islands. You will want to make sure you camera is ready for 3 hours of breathtaking scenery and wildlife in the Bay of Islands. Bald Eagles are abundant in this area as well as other animals such as moose and sea birds.  

Overnight at Marble Mountain Resort

Day 9 – We will drop the guests off at the Deer Lake Airport that have decided to just to the Viking Trail and Gros Morne route at lunch time. 

From here you will continue with me to photograph more icebergs humpback whales, the largest puffin colony in North America and the Gannet colony. 

Together we will head east towards Gander. One we arrive in Gander we will drop our luggage and head directly to Twillengate or Newtown (depending on iceberg flow and weather).

Stay in Gander, Newfoundland. 

Day 10 and 11 - Its an early morning breakfast on the morning of Day 10 before we head south to Bonavista Bay. First, we head to Newtown. Newtown is called the Venice of Newfoundland. Imagine the past meeting the present! Meet characters from the past in our homes, school, fish stage, gardens, and Sealers Interpretation Centre. But best of all are the photographic opportunities of this spectacular colourful town as the sun rises during the golden hour. 

Here you will see beautiful coastal Newfoundland at its finest. Our time here will be spent on two zodiac tours tracking down humpback whales and the cathedral icebergs as they travel down the coastal waters of iceberg alley. 

You will also visit the largest puffin colony in North America in Elliston. When we are not on the water there is also plenty to see and photograph. From the charming town of Trinity, to the lighthouses of Bonavista and Trinity, and all the coastal jagged landscapes your camera can take. :-)

Stay at Round da Bay Inn on both nights

On the morning of Day 12 - We head south towards our hotel in St. Johns. Our final destination, St. Johns. But before we get to our hotel, there is plenty to see and photograph. Our choices, depending on weather, and your appetite to photograph include, Hearts Content, Cavendish and a trip to see the gannet colony along the cliffs in Cape St. Marys. 

Todays drive can see you photographing more lighthouses, icebergs, gannets, picturesque fishing huts and the every popular jelly bean row and the battery just outside of St. Johns.

Stay in St. Johns. 

Day 13 - The best time to photograph Cape Spear is early morning as the sun rises. I will have you put in the right place to capture the first sunrise in North America. We will spend the morning at the lighthouse with a trip to the Battery and Jelly Bean row before returning you to the hotel to grab your bags.

I can have you at the St. Johns airport by between noon and 1pm so you can catch your flight home. 

Contact me if this is of interest to you and we will get you registered with my tour company. 

Just click here and we will see you in Newfoundland on one of my favourite Photography destinations in Canada

A Bucket-List Photography Vacation you did not know was on your Bucket-List

Mongolia holds a special place in my heart. 

From my magical first visit five years ago I remember driving through the rolling countryside headed towards the ancient city of Karakorum along country roads dotted with nomadic families that had come down from their winter locations. 

It felt surreal, as if I was stepping further back in time the further I travelled from Ulaanbaator. No roads, vehicles became sparce, and families living as they have for thousands of years… yet there I was, transporting myself back in time without the luxury of a time travelling DeLorian from “Back to the Future”.

As a history buff, I had read about Mongolia, often wondering what life would have been like when Ghengis Khan ruled most of the world from the city that would be my destination, Karakorum. 

Now, here I was, seeing, and photographing life as its been for generations before me. 

Despite its relatively small size, Karakorum was one of the most important cities in the history of the Silk Road. Founded by Genghis Khan in 1220, Karakorum's development as capital of the Mongol Empire occurred in the 1230s under his son Ögedei. The Mongols had a profound impact on the history of trade across Central Asia, as their vast empire connected east and west, and trade and exchange were facilitated by the Pax Mongolica, enforcing, as far as possible, peace and a degree of stability across the vast territories under Mongol rule.

The population back in its time of rule may be interesting to most of you. Karakorum contained a microcosm of the religious diversity of the Mongol empire.  Shamanism, the Mongolian indigenous religion, was practiced, as well as Islam brought by Muslim traders in earlier centuries.  Buddhism was very popular in the city at this time too, as was Nestorian Christianity. You see, Ghengis Khan, although a brutal leader that would kill as he expanded his empire, embraced all, and their religions that chose to join him. 

By the time Marco Polo reached China in the early 1270s, the Qubilai Khan had made Beijing the Empire's capital, replacing Karakorum. Yet throughout much of the 14th century it retained a symbolic importance as the city 'founded' by the charismatic founder of the Empire, Genghis Khan. 

Today, Karakorum is the location of one of the important annual Naadam festivals, celebrating Mongolian traditional sports and culture.

On my first visit, I wasn’t sure if it was the heavy weight of history that filled the air, or the The Erdene Zuu Monastery. A monastery that is probably the earliest surviving Buddhist monastery in Mongolia and is adjacent to the ancient city of Karakorum, or it was the Naadam festival that I witnessed… my first visit was something I will never forget. 

From Karakorum it was time to head west. You would know this area as Outer Mongolia. My destination was Ulgii. A small town in Western Mongolia that hosts the annual Golden Eagle Festival every October.

The Golden Eagle Festival is a celebration of the ancient art of Falconry on Horseback. The earlies recordings of hunting with Golden Eagles on horseback I could find was in the 12th Century. 

Today, approximately 250 Kazakh men live in the western Mongolia province of Bayan-Olgi and carry on a tradition first depicted by the Khitan archives. This tradition is “horse riding eagle falconry”. The skill of using a Golden Eagle to capture prey while riding through the mountains.

Now, every October, a festival to celebrate the traditions and the craft of eagle hunting on horseback occurs. During this festival up to 70 eagle hunters gather for the annual Kazakh Golden Eagle Festival of Mongolia.

I have had the pleasure of witnessing the synchronicity between man (and a young 13yr old girl) and eagle over the course of two entertaining days. Both hunter and eagle showing off the skills needed to once tip the scales between starvation and survival; now showing off the skills to still feed a family, but more to embrace the long standing heritage and show off the prowess of the art of hunting fox.

But for now, this was the summer, I wasn’t there for the festival. I was visiting a host family that had a long tradition of eagle falconry. As I sat there and watched the two work in tandem, I couldn’t help but wonder how close the bond had to be between a wild golden eagle that was taken after birth from a nest, and the Mongolian Eagle Hunter. Was it a skill that the two mastered together, or was it some pavlovian genetic instinct of the eagle to hunt, combined with man’s superior mind. Was the hunter using training methods of reward so the eagle would hunt?

My answer came to me after closely watching both men and bird during my time living with a Kazakh family in Western Mongolia. There, immersed in the ways of the past, watching the eagle live with the family, I spotted the first of many first tender moments of man and bird.

The bond did not spawn from the birds need to hunt, nor did it come from training, it came from creating a special, and unfathomable respect between a wild bird and a simple man. The man would command, the eagle would listen, instinctively hunt as it has done for centuries, then wait for the hunter to arrive with prey in its talons.

As seen with the photo with this article. This was that moment that made the trip for me… That tender moment between an eagle and a man made this trip more than a visit to a festival, it made this trip an eye opening experience that two beings, normally hunting to survive as competitors, can learn that working together, producing a better life.

It almost made me sad to think that this relationship only lasts 6 to 10 years. After that, the female eagle is released back into the wild so she can breed and live out her life as a wild eagle should. Both hunter and eagle having lived a richer life for the friendship forged.

Before I left Mongolia though, I wanted to see the Przewalski Horse. A horse brought back from the brink of disappearance on earth. 

This stocky, 1.2 m-tall (4 ft.) animal is the only surviving subspecies of horse that has never been domesticated. The horses became known to science in 1879 when a Polish naturalist named Przewalski (pronounced zeh-val-skee) "discovered" a wild herd.

They once inhabited the vast grasslands of central Asia, but beginning in the early 1900s, hunting pressure, competition for grazing land and water, and interbreeding with domestic Mongol ponies contributed to their increasing scarcity.

Despite strict legal protection in Mongolia since 1926, the species became extinct in the wild in the 1960s. Then, in 1992, a successful breeding program that relied on captive animals from zoos around the world was started, and the species has been reintroduced into several Mongolian national parks.

In 2005, the wild populations were estimated at about 300 animals. On my recent trip to Mongolia we talked to a biologist at Hustai National Park and learned the horses are now in the Gobi and in Hustai in self-sustaining herds.

For me, trips to Mongolia are not just about the photography. While the photo opportunities are ones that are some of the best I have ever had, it’s the people, the cultural and the jaw dropping landscapes that you drive through to get to the destinations that I love. 

I would love to share this with you in 2018 as I lead another workshop for Muench Workshops. My trip in the summer of 2017 is sold out, and so is my trip in October of 2017. But in July of 2018 I am taking a group of 8 to see three amazing experiences… the Kazakh Eagle Hunters, the Naadam Festival and the Reindeer Herders. 

Please see all the details of that workshop here, http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/2018-mongolia-workshop-with-muench-workshops

Who wants to photograph the northern lights

Calling all photographers that have always wanted to photograph the northern lights in one of the best locations in the world to capture the Aurora.

I am referring to the Yukon. It is here where you will close your eyes and breathe in crisp Yukon air. Smell spruce sap and the earthy scent of tundra, and listen for the excited howls of husky sled dogs. But the real magic happens when you open your eyes and drink in Yukon landscapes under dancing aurora borealis.

Come with us on a vacation in Canada's Yukon, it is a larger than life experience.

Now after five years of running workshops in Northern Canada, we’ve decided to take a group of photographers to focus on an Aurora hunt and select winter landscapes in two Kevin’s favorite locations in the Yukon, Whitehorse and Tombstone. 

This is the perfect trip for someone that wants to focus on capturing once in a lifetime aurora images over some of the most majestic landscapes Canada has to offer.

All the details can be seen here, http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/2017-yukon-territory-adventure

Photography Workshops in Canada in the fall and winter of 2017/2018

If fall colours is something that you are interested in... how about the largest bald eagle migration in the world... or even winter landscapes and northern lights photography are more up your alley... I have a few workshops that I think you just might find interesting. 

In October of 2017 Jeff Wendorff and I will be taking a group of photographers around my backyard... Ontario... home of the waterfall capitol of the world and some of the best maple forests that turn a vibrant orange and red every fall. 

See the details below and a link for all the information

Fall Colours and more in Canada

Dates of the Workshop: October 19th, 2017 to October 25th, 2017

Instructors: Kevin Allen Pepper and Jeff Wendorff

Join Jeff Wendorff and Kevin Pepper on our fall color in Canada workshop in our backyard, Ontario, Canada. Together we will travel from the Great Lakes, visit the Waterfall Capitol of the World and head for the southern most point of Canada, Pelee Island and the winery. You will be introduced to some stunning scenery and some of our local wildlife such as owls, red fox, bald eagles, one of the best wineries in Canada, the largest junk yard in Canada and Niagara Falls.

See Details Here

How about the Northern Lights in Canada? You dont have to travel half way around the world to Iceland and Norway to get great aurora images... we have them here in Canada, and our landscapes are fantastic. 

All the details and a link to see more information is below

Yukon Aurora, Landscapes and Wildlife

Workshop is November 11, 2017 to November 17, 2017

Instructors:  Kevin Pepper and Michael Strickland

This photo workshop takes you to a unique part of the country to witness some of the best winter landscapes Canada has to offer. You are also going to be in some of Canada's prime aurora viewing locations.

See Details Here

Did you know that we have one of, if not THE largest migration of Bald Eagles in Canada? I used to live 10 minutes from this migration and know the honey holes where the eagles fish for the spawning salmon every fall. 

See all the details and a link for more information below. 

Birds of Prey and More

Workshop is November 26 to December 1, 2017

Instructors: Jeff Wendorff and Kevin Pepper

This photo workshop is centered on the largest bald eagle migration in North America. Between 2000 to 8000 bald eagles find their way to this area beginning in late October to feed on the spawning salmon. They then stay in the area until later in the winter months to have their young before returning to their summer area in Northern BC and the Yukon.

See Details Here

The Yukon is home to some of the most saught after wildlife in Canada. While most are near impossible to see because of the remoteness of the mammals, or the elusive natures of other, I have created a photography workshop to help you see all these animals over the course of 6 days. 

All the details can be seen below. Click on the link to find out more. 

Yukon Wildlife and Aurora Photography Workshop

Dates: January 21, 2018 to January 26, 2018

Instructor: Kevin A. Pepper

Calling all photographers that have always wanted to photograph some of Canada's most exotic wildlife species and photograph the northern lights in one of the best locations in the world to capture the Aurora. 

I am referring to the Yukon. It is here where you will close your eyes and breathe in crisp Yukon air. Smell spruce sap and the earthy scent of tundra, and listen for the excited howls of husky sled dogs. But the real magic happens when you open your eyes and drink in Yukon landscapes under dancing aurora borealis. 

See Details here

I hope to see you in Canada later this year. 

Kev