Newfoundland... come take the road less travelled

Sometimes, you have to take the road less travelled before the real journey begins.

In Newfoundland and Labrador, your photo workshop journey with Kevin Pepper can be as colourful as stories told around the kitchen table, or as colourful as the fishing huts we can visit on our trips in Newfoundland. As meandering as the thousands of kilometres of coastline. As surprising as a humpback whale breaching in the mist. Or as comforting as bakeapple jam cooked our chefs that will make for us on our journey. These are places that will travel with you, wherever you go, long after our time together.

Favourite Destinations of people that have travelled here with me

There are places on this earth that continue to live inside of you long after you’ve travelled on. Places where you’ll find yourself among the friendliest of unfamiliar faces, some of whom may become lifelong friends. Why not start your visit in one of my most popular places?

Gros Morne

It took 485 million years for Mother Nature to create Gros Morne National Park, a place unlike any other on earth. A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering 1,805 square kilometres, the park is a never-ending series of wonders and delights, and a demonstration of the spectacularly raw and enigmatic beauty of the physical world.

You can hike the amazing landscape along the earth’s mantle, or climb to life-changing summits. Travel along the water through fjords carved by glaciers millennia ago, leaving behind towering cliffs and thunderous waterfalls. Alongside the natural wonders are highlights of a cultural heritage rich in humour and creativity – festivals, music, art – found throughout the park in towns like Cow Head and Woody Point.

Codroy Valley

Green. The deepest and most vivid shades of green, perfect for long meadow walks and lazy picnics. This is Codroy Valley, a collection of 15 communities tucked away in western Newfoundland. Sheltered by the Long Range Mountains, boasting temperatures milder than the rest of the island, a haven for birders, nature lovers, adventurers, historians, and travellers alike.

Dramatic churches stand on cliffs overlooking the ocean, and clouds float over traditional farmlands dotted with grazing Newfoundland ponies.

But your highlight with me is the lighthouse at Cape Anguille, the most westerly point of the island… and Ann always takes care of us when we are there.

Cape St Marys

Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve is a wonderland for birdwatchers and photographers alike. Thousands of gulls, razorbills, common murres, black-legged kittiwakes, northern gannets, and double-crested and great cormorants nest here. Where 20,000 scoters, oldsquaw, harlequin, dovekies, thick-billed murres, and kittiwakes winter.

This captivating area is one of seven protected seabird ecological reserves. Its natural beauty makes it perfect for nature walks and offers some of the best seabird photography in Newfoundland.

Trinity and Bonavista

History, friendliness, and steadfast authenticity are woven into every aspect of the Trinity area. The town offers beautifully restored fishing rooms and saltbox houses, accommodations in historic buildings, and top-rated dining experiences. Nearby you’ll get a chance to hike along the coast on one of the province’s most popular trails. Or take a boat tour and see some of our breathtaking coastline from a different perspective as you watch for whales, birds, and icebergs.

But a real highlight between Trinity and Bonavista is the Puffin colony in Elliston. Elliston's puffin viewing site offers the closest view of the largest puffin colony in North America. Better yet, you can photograph them from land. Puffins fly close to viewers and often land on the cliffs just several feet away.

When Italian explorer Giovanni Caboto (or John Cabot as he is locally known) first discovered North America in 1497, his first words were “O buono vista!” When translated into English, this phrase means “Oh happy sight!”, which is certainly fitting for what would become the town of Bonavista, the historic site of Cabot's landing.

Twillingate

Imagine yourself seated on a patch of long grass, looking out over the pristine waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Fishing boats bounce softly over the waves as the light from the setting sun reflects off the side of a 10,000-year-old iceberg. This is just a tiny piece of the beauty you will experience with me in Twillingate.

Quirpon Island

But the highlight form me on my Newfoundland tours is always a stay in a historic 1922 lighthouse inn still operating on a deserted island at the northern tip of Newfoundland. Seascapes that just beg to be photographed, rainbows that show up as the sea fog reseeds, and of course, the Orcas and humpbacks that are frequent visitors, often coming so close to shore you can almost touch them. Watch from our comfortable indoor viewing station, take our zodiac or guided kayak tours to get a closer view, or just relax and watch the northern lights that can appear in this northern part of Newfoundland.

Please check out all the Newfoundland Trips I am leading on my website.

All my Newfoundland trips that are focused on landscapes can be found here. https://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/canadian-landscape-workshops 

My wildlife focused workshops can be found here. https://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/wildlife-workshops-in-canada

Highlights of my annual Newfoundland Workshops ... Part Two

As a continuation to my earlier post on areas of Newfoundland that have turned into my favourite places to visit, todays blog is a continuation of that post. 

Lets start off discussing the Provincial Bird, the Puffin. 

Going to photograph the Puffins in Newfoundland is a must see for anyone that likes to photograph birds, er even wildlife for that matter. 

There are a few ways you can photograph these birds. One is by boat, the other by land. My personal preference is to photograph them by land. That can be done in the town of Ellison 

Elliston was once known as Bird Island Cove and with good reason. It is home to numerous seabirds and also the Atlantic Puffin. In fact, we have one of the closest land views of puffins in North America. The puffin is also the official bird of Newfoundland and Labrador since 1992.

The Atlantic Puffin is one of four puffin species and the only one that lives on the North Atlantic Ocean. The Latin term is Fratercula arctica, with fratercula meaning "little brother" and arctica meaning "north." This scientific name can be translated as "little brother of the north." The puffin is also known as the "sea parrot" due in part to its interesting colouring. Elliston has hundreds nesting pairs at the site and more on North Bird Island.

Puffins establish burrows on grassy cliffs. They will also nest amongst rocks. Male puffins perform most of the work of clearing out the nest area, which is sometimes lined with grass, feathers or seaweed. The only time spent on land is to nest which is about five months per year. Mates are found prior to arriving at the colonies, and mating takes place at sea. The Atlantic Puffin is sexually mature at the age of 4–5 years. The species is monogamous and has biparental care. A single-egg clutch is produced each year, and incubation responsibilities are shared between both parents. Total incubation time is around 39–45 days, and the chick takes about 49 days to fledge. At fledging, the chick leaves the burrow alone, and flies/swims out to sea, usually during the evening. Contrary to popular belief, young puffins are not abandoned by their parents. The average bird lives about 20 years.

My favourite puffin viewing site is just a short five minute walk from the main road on a sharp turn. It is also roughly halfway between Sandy Cove Beach and Puffin Ventures Craft shop in Maberly. Puffins return to the area in May and usually stay until the end of September.

On the theme of bird life in Newfoundland, one can not leave out Cape St. Marys. Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve is a wonderland for birdwatchers and explorers alike. Thousands of gulls, razorbills, common murres, black-legged kittiwakes, northern gannets, and double-crested and great cormorants nest here. Where 20,000 scoters, oldsquaw, harlequin, dovekies, thick-billed murres, and kittiwakes winter. This captivating area is one of seven seabird ecological reserves protected by provincial legislation. Its natural beauty makes it perfect for nature walks and family adventures.

Cape St. Mary's is the most accessible seabird rookery in North America. Bird Rock is the third largest nesting site and southernmost colony of northern gannets in North America. Cape St. Mary's is also the southernmost breeding area for thick-billed murres in the world and the southernmost major breeding site for common murres in the northwest Atlantic Ocean. This site is overflowing with perching, diving, and scrambling birds from edge to edge – melding together into an awesome moving, breathing spectacle of colour and sound.

OK, lets switch gears... lets discuss the Cape Spear lighthouse and St. Johns itself. There is plenty to see and photograph here for any photographer. 

At Cape Spear you can stand with your back to the sea and the entire population of North America is to the west of you. Face the sea and the next stop east is Ireland.

Perched on a rugged cliff at our continent's most easterly point lies Cape Spear Lighthouse – the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province and an iconic symbol of Newfoundland and Labrador's mariner history.

Constructed in 1836, the Cape Spear Lighthouse represents the unique architecture of lighthouse construction during this era. The structure consists of a stone light tower surrounded by the lightkeeper's residence. In 1955 a new lighthouse tower was built on the site using the active light from the original lighthouse.

The human side of Cape Spear tells the story of the Cantwell family. Generations of this famous family of lightkeepers resided at Cape Spear for over 150 years and worked tirelessly to maintain a light so vital to mariners. Step inside the restored lighthouse and discover the true life of a 19th-century lighthouse keeper.

Journey back in time and explore the remnants of the sites World War II coastal defence battery – Fort Cape Spear. Walk in the footsteps of Canadian and American soldiers as they guarded St. John's from attack from lurking German U-boats.

For the naturalist, Cape Spear will overload your senses with ocean vistas of crashing waves, feeding whales and majestic icebergs. The site also provides an entry point to the breathtaking East Coast Trail.

Jelly Bean Row... It has been said, the human eye can see over ten million colours. Around here, we felt as though there were a few missing. So residents have taken the liberty to think up some of their own. You’ll find that the path through Jellybean Row is paved with all sorts of tones - from the playful absurdity of Mollyfodge, to the subtle silvern mists of Foggy Dew, and everything in between.

There is lots more to see and do in and around Newfoundland, for the tourist folks, Signal Hill is a must visit, the warf, the battery... but Im going to skip up north now and focus on a few other highlights... 

Lets look at Cavendish, Trinity and Hearts Content on Trinity Bay. This whole area has something for everyone! Steeped in wonderfully preserved history, surrounded by pristine waters and forests, Heart's Content, Cavendish and Trinity are a few places you will never forget...Let me just say vibrant colour, incredible architecture to photograph and fantastic people. 

A little farther up the eastern coastline are two more of my favourites... not too far from each other lie Newtown and Twillengate. 

Newtown, said to be called the Venice of Newfoundland. Imagine the past meeting the present! Meet characters from the past in our homes, school, fish stage, gardens, and Sealers Interpretation Centre. This town is somewhere that my groups say they could spend a whole day at... 

Awhhh, then there is Twillengate. Known for its icebergs and dotted islands that lie just off the coast, Twillengate is a favourite every year for the icebergs. 

A small island in the North Atlantic, Twillingate is one of the most picturesque outports in all of Newfoundland and Labrador and one of the province's most popular rural outport destinations.

Located on the edge of what is known as Iceberg Alley, Twillingate is affectionately known as the Iceberg Capital of the world. Many of these 10,000 year old iceberg giants float by quietly each year and people travel great distances just to chance a glance.

Have I teased you enough yet? ;-) How about one more photo from a whale tour in Trinity Bay... 

Why dont you check out my Newfoundland tours page. It has all the trips I am running in this very photogenic province. All those trips can be seen here. http://www.kevinpepperphotography.com/newfoundland-photography-workshops

Oh, and dont forget to check out part one of my highlights of Newfoundland. Check that out here, www.kevinpepperphotography/blog/2017/5/19/highlights-of-my-annual-trips-to-newfoundland-part-one

The "Very Best Of Newfoundland" Photography Workshop

The Very Best of Newfoundland

This is where the sun rises first in North America. Where Vikings landed over 1,000 years ago. This place is home to the oldest settlement and the oldest city in North America, but is the youngest province of Canada. 

A vast land, with a relatively small population, Newfoundland and Labrador has some of the friendliest people you'll ever meet. Here, you can immerse yourself in wilderness solitude one day and embrace a vibrant culture at the cutting edge of the contemporary western world the next. 

This is a land of rich history and natural wonders: stunning coastlines, breaching whales, icebergs, and some of the most incredible skyscapes you'll ever see.

Why Come to Newfoundland With Me?

I have been travelling to Newfoundland and Labrador for many years now. From Rose Blanche to Gros Morne, north to Quirpon and Labrador, and up and down the south east coast. I have led trips for landscapes, wildlife, icebergs and those wonderful, cute little birds we all love, the Puffins. 

In total I have been on six photography trips to Newfoundland, and over the years refined my trips with the best partners in the province to make them perfect for the photographer. My partners for whale and iceberg tours are experienced guides and will get us where humpback whales are each and every trip. My tour partner that owns the lighthouses we stay in make my trips some of my most memorable ones because of the staff, the experience, the fun we have, and most importantly to you... the photography opportunities. 

Maximum number of spots: The first 8 days has a maximum of 6 people in attendance, But I can only take a maximum of 4 people on my entire journey through Newfoundland. Therefore, I can only offer this 13 day trip to a maximum of 4 people. (Update... 3 spots left)

Price of the workshop: $7995CDN plus applicable taxes ($5895USD plus applicable taxes)

Dates of this Workshop: June 15, 2019 to June 27, 2019

Workshop Instructor: Kevin Pepper 

What’s Included?
All accommodation, meals at Quirpon Lighthouse and Cape Anguille Lighthosue Inns, Unlimited mileage vehicle, four zodiac tours and any entrance fees during this trip. 

What’s Not Included?
Items of personal nature, alcohol, meals not mentioned as included, flight from St. Johns to St Anthonys, international flights, visa to enter Canada (if required), anything not listed as included.

Day 1 - You will board your flight from St. Johns to At. Anthonys airport. There you will be picked up and taken to Quirpon Island. Here we visit the island’s unique sites and delicate biology. Take a walk along our cliff-top trails or explore the island following only your whims. 

Our stay for these two nights is at the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn. Quirpon (pronounced kar-poon) offers a unique island experience at a 1922 light-keeper’s home on the shores of ‘Iceberg Alley’. 

Fully restored, Quirpon Lighthouse Inn features ten beautiful rooms at the base of a still-operating lighthouse and is a Registered Heritage Building.

Located off the northernmost tip of Newfoundland, Quirpon is the province’s best location for viewing icebergs as the Labrador Current carries them south. Quirpon Island boasts the longest iceberg-viewing season in Newfoundland, with the last melting in the fall during a good year.

Whales are constant companions off the shores of Quirpon, often coming close enough to the rocks to be touched. Whale experts ascribe this phenomenon to the underwater topography and ample food supply. In addition to Humbacks and Minke - the presence of which is virtually inevitable - you may spot as many as 27 more species, including Orca, which are being spotted with increasing frequency around Quirpon Island despite becoming a rarer sight elsewhere in Newfoundland.

Quirpon is located on a private island and we have full access to the entire property and have our own lighthouse to photograph

Overnight: Quirpon Lighthouse Inn  

Day 2 - Now that you have wandered by land and taken Landscape and seascape photos, it is time to visit the whales and the dozens of icebergs by sea in our private zodiac.  

Our guide will take you on an exploration of the coastline not only in search of the massive wonders of this area that float aimlessly down the coastline from Greenland, but also the more subtle beauty...   

You will also photograph the Gannets, the Kittiwake colonies and Eider ducks nesting in tiny coves where you can pick mussels from the kayaks if the tide is low and tiny tickles which your boat can squeeze through ensure fun and dozens of photos.  

Overnight: Quirpon Lighthouse Inn

Day 3 - Head South to Gros Morne.  Just north of Gros Morne keep an eye out for The Arches. This unique rock formation is an ideal spot to stretch your legs. I can never resist the temptation to climb up on the top for a look but perhaps you will have more self-control! A few years ago an adventure race started at The Arches and then headed straight across the Great Northern Peninsula. 

This was done on foot and was only the first leg of a multi-day adventure that had the participants hiking, climbing, kayaking and biking in some of the harshest terrain imaginable. If you have been out wandering in the Tuckamore and looking at the mountains, you will appreciate the endurance of these folks.  

The white sand beaches near Cow Head which are wonderful and usually empty, very nice for a walk (or a swim, for hardier souls). Tonight enjoy some great local theatre at the Gros Morne Theatre in Cow Head, if you would like to experience the local culture.  

Overnight in Gros Morne National Park       

Day 4 -  Head off to the south side of Gros Morne National Park. Start at the Discovery Centre for an interpretation of the natural and cultural history of the National Park. From the centre you were able to see the Tablelands, the remarkable stretch of Mars like geology that makes this park a UNESCO World Heritage Site.   

Wander “downtown” Woody Point to explore the shops and waterfront.  After building an appetite it is time to head for a meal on a balcony overlooking Bonne Bay. I know the food will be great, but keep one eye on the ocean so you don’t miss whales that might be chasing the capelin into the bay, looking for their own seafood supper

To top the day off, before the sun goes down, it’s a great photoshoot at an impressive waterfall… but the waterfall is not the star of the show, it’s the Atlantic salmon that are jumping up the falls to their spawning grounds. These massive, 20-30lb fish throw themselves just meters from out feet and you can capture them in air, backs arcing… a photoshoot you only see on the Nat Geo channel.  

Overnight: South side of Gros Morne  

Day 5 - Feeling energetic? Today we will hike the Green Garden Trail that leads you through remarkable biological and geological wonders which are not equaled anywhere else on earth. This is approximately a 45-minute walk down a park trail to the coast. Wander along the coast as long as you like enjoying the seastacks, pillow lava, wild meadows, sea cave and semi-wild sheep. Then - more strenuous walking as you head back up the valley to our vehicle. You will be gone for a few hours, at least, so we will make sure we pack a lunch.

Trout River is a picturesque working fishing village wedged between the Tablelands and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Take a gentle walk on the Boardwalk and visit the museum, interpretation centre and historic house of Jacob A Crocker, the first settler of Trout River. There are also some wonderful craftspeople so you may be able to get a new pair of socks directly of the clothesline. 

A visit to the wharf is a must, not only for the photos, but because it gives you a chance to meet the local fishers and see what is destined for your plate later. Trout River boasts some beautiful walking trails and be certain to drive in back of the community to visit Trout River Pond. When you are overlooking it you have to realize that, as impressive as it is, you can only see about one third of it! There are several restaurants so we won’t go hungry eating local cuisine.   After supper, time to drive around Bonne Bay to the north side of Gros Morne.  

Visit some of the sites on the north side of the park including Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, Norris Point Look-off, the Ethie shipwreck and Rocky Harbour.   

If time permits we will do a return trip to Sir Richard Squires Provincial Park where the Atlantic Salmon jump the falls in their struggle to reach the headwaters of the Humber River. This is a great spot to relax and watch the salmon leaping while you try for the perfect photo of them in the air. This actually is the spot where National Geographic comes when they are looking for that ideal shot.

Overnight: South side of Gros Morne

Day 6 and Day 7 -  This morning we head further south to Cape Anguille Lighthouse. The Inn at Cape Anguille is a restored century-old light-keeper’s home in a beautiful corner of western Newfoundland and is designated as a Registered Heritage Structure for Newfoundland and Labrador. The Atlantic Ocean provides the temperamental backdrop to the peaceful landscape, dotted with horses and sheep wandering the meadows and hills.

Nature lovers will enjoy the eagles patrolling the cliffs and silhouetted osprey carrying fish to their young as the sun sets on a limitless sea. Avid birdwatchers will delight at the variety and number of rare birds that call this place their home. Hikers and sightseers will revel in chance to walk the hills and coastline around the lighthouse, enjoying agreeable terrain and spectacular views, while those less inclined to hike can relax and enjoy the sights and sounds of the sea, birds hopping by your doorstep and the gentle seaside path that starts at our lawn.

Lovely white sand beaches at the provincial park lure you in for a stroll and perhaps even a swim, while the shopkeepers and craftspeople of the area are warm and welcoming.

This corner of Newfoundland is the most likely location for spotting blue whales, the largest animals ever known to have lived on the Earth. Keep an eye out for spouts on the horizon!

 A very rare beluga whale has also called the area its summer home, providing exquisite company for swimmers and paddlers alike. With luck, our bubbly buddy will return to renew friendships.

During our time here we will also take a day long boat tour (weather permitting). This is a tour of the now-resettled remote communities of Grand Bruit and Petites, with a bonus stop in the still-active fishing village of La Poile. It includes a full day of boating with interpretation and close up views of sea birds, marine life and possibly whales. You will look for beach-combing critters like otters and wild game such as caribou, moose and bear which often frequent the shoreline.

La Poile is one of the last surviving isolated Newfoundland villages that is completely dependent on the commercial fishery for survival. Our skipper is from La Poile and knows the area intimately. You will learn about lobster and crab fishing, and you will try for a cod or mackerel. 

If you long for fresh air and would like to feel as if you've stepped back in time, this is the excursion for you. 

Overnight: Cape Anguille Inn 

Day 8 - We travel back to Marble Mountain Resort. We will check into our hotel and then head to bay of Islands. You will want to make sure you camera is ready for 3 hours of breathtaking scenery and wildlife in the Bay of Islands. Bald Eagles are abundant in this area as well as other animals such as moose and sea birds.  

Overnight at Marble Mountain Resort

Day 9 – We will drop the guests off at the Deer Lake Airport that have decided to just to the Viking Trail and Gros Morne route at lunch time. 

From here you will continue with me to photograph more icebergs humpback whales, the largest puffin colony in North America and the Gannet colony. 

Together we will head east towards Gander. One we arrive in Gander we will drop our luggage and head directly to Twillengate or Newtown (depending on iceberg flow and weather).

Stay in Gander, Newfoundland. 

Day 10 and 11 - Its an early morning breakfast on the morning of Day 10 before we head south to Bonavista Bay. First, we head to Newtown. Newtown is called the Venice of Newfoundland. Imagine the past meeting the present! Meet characters from the past in our homes, school, fish stage, gardens, and Sealers Interpretation Centre. But best of all are the photographic opportunities of this spectacular colourful town as the sun rises during the golden hour. 

Here you will see beautiful coastal Newfoundland at its finest. Our time here will be spent on two zodiac tours tracking down humpback whales and the cathedral icebergs as they travel down the coastal waters of iceberg alley. 

You will also visit the largest puffin colony in North America in Elliston. When we are not on the water there is also plenty to see and photograph. From the charming town of Trinity, to the lighthouses of Bonavista and Trinity, and all the coastal jagged landscapes your camera can take. :-)

Stay at Round da Bay Inn on both nights

On the morning of Day 12 - We head south towards our hotel in St. Johns. Our final destination, St. Johns. But before we get to our hotel, there is plenty to see and photograph. Our choices, depending on weather, and your appetite to photograph include, Hearts Content, Cavendish and a trip to see the gannet colony along the cliffs in Cape St. Marys. 

Todays drive can see you photographing more lighthouses, icebergs, gannets, picturesque fishing huts and the every popular jelly bean row and the battery just outside of St. Johns.

Stay in St. Johns. 

Day 13 - The best time to photograph Cape Spear is early morning as the sun rises. I will have you put in the right place to capture the first sunrise in North America. We will spend the morning at the lighthouse with a trip to the Battery and Jelly Bean row before returning you to the hotel to grab your bags.

I can have you at the St. Johns airport by between noon and 1pm so you can catch your flight home. 

Contact me if this is of interest to you and we will get you registered with my tour company. 

Just click here and we will see you in Newfoundland on one of my favourite Photography destinations in Canada